Kook: What Surfing Taught Me About Love, Life, as well as Catching a Perfect Wave
ISBN13: 9780743294201Condition: NewNotes: BUY WITH CONFIDENCE, Over one million books sold! 98% Positive feedback. Compare our books, prices and ser...
- ISBN13: 9780743294201
- Condition: New
- Notes: BUY WITH CONFIDENCE, Over a singular million books sold! 98% Positive feedback. Compare a books, prices as well as use to a competition. 100% Satisfaction Guaranteed
With grit, poetry, and humor, Peter Heller, acclaimed writer of The Whale Warriors recounts his conspicuous tour of discovery—of surfing, an wholly latest challenge; of a ocean’s beauty as well as power; of a bizarre roller subculture; of love; and, many of all, of how to find journey whilst crafting a suggestive life.Having resolved to master a big-hollow wave— which is, to go from crackpot (surfese for beginner) to shredder—in a singular year, Heller travels from Southern California down a co
Rating: 
(out of 5 reviews)
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Review by C. Solares for Kook: What Surfing Taught Me About Love, Life, as great as Catching the Perfect Wave
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This is my initial examination ever, as great as I’m usually essay it given there were none, so we figured it would be beneficial to impending purchasers to have something here alternative afterwards veteran reviews.
I’ll begin by observant this book is an easy read, interesting as great as great value the cost of admission, even to non-surfers. Heller, as the self desribed crackpot (or beginner), takes us solemnly in to surfing enlightenment as great as terminology during the gait where we can simply assimilate sure aspects of surfing yet essentially being the surfer. There is the great feel for the complexity as great as joining which it takes to turn proficient during surfing as great as we suspicion the writer was means to get the emotions as great as spirituality of the surfing knowledge opposite to the wider audience. As the surfing lifestyle book, we consider it is the sucess.
The alternative themes of the book have been secondary: Ocean Conservation as great as Relationships. It is viewable Heller’s passion is the sea as great as there is the conservationist summary sprinkled via which is mostly great integrated, yet during times seemed the bit forced. If we have been the right wing ultra regressive (or Japanese) we might find the summary off putting, yet if we tumble in to which stay we substantially wouldn’t be out surfing or celebration of the mass this book.
The usually reason we didn’t give the book the full 5 stars is given we wasn’t assured Heller schooled the attribute recommendation he was giving himself as he grew via the book. Towards the finish of the book, he doesn’t appear to be any some-more bargain of his girlfriend/wife’s difficulties, as great as even if he understands, he doesn’t appear to essentially *do* anything about it, he only goes surfing as great as leaves her during the back of or whines about carrying to wait for for her, even yet he knows the selfish. As the attribute book, we consider this fails. Heller seems unapproachable of the actuality which he eventually realizes he is being the greedy jerk, yet he doesn’t appear to urge his behaiviour. Why?
Finally, it seems towards the finish of his book he has turn great during surfing, yet bad during carrying the great surfing attitude. He seems to have turn the man he complains about in the commencement of the book, snaking (stealing) waves from obtuse surfers as great as behaving out aggressively during the smallest provocation. we might have gotten this wrong given towards the final couple of chapters Heller is no longer surfing ‘beginner’ waves as great as the event to be respectful to kooks doesn’t benefaction itself as often, yet if his self described poise in his final loyal beginner’s call (‘Old Man’s’ in Cabo or Acapulquito) is any indication, his perspective has turn the single where his supremacy allows him to mangle the manners of pleasantness he had such the tough time guidance in the initial couple of chapters.
I might be overly supportive to the theme given we was only there (Acapulquito) final week: There was the gringo in the longboard which kept paddling around me to the peak, when it was obviuos it was my wave. Several times. Then he did it multiform times to my son. Some arrange of turtle-ish tatoo upon his left bicep. He wasn’t even which good! Heller, was which you?
Interestingly, the locals were some-more than respectful as great as never snaked. They knew where to be during the right time for the right wave, so they didn’t have to.
In conclusion, Heller’s book is good. It is entertaining, which is what each great book should essay to be, as great as the essay is verb abounding as great as descriptive- roughly as well most so during times. The summary is there as great as the topics have been timely, as great as we came divided with the feeling which nonetheless Heller is not the man we wish to run in to during the lineup of my home mangle in Puerto Rico (or dating my daughter, for which matter), he IS the man we wish out there essay about whales as great as sea turtles, as great as hopefully creation the difference.
Review by Emilie Heller-rhys for Kook: What Surfing Taught Me About Love, Life, as well as Catching the Perfect Wave
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I adore this book! Kook is the quick as well as colourful debate of surfing, the ecology of oceans, adore as well as self-awareness. Having no before knowledge or seductiveness in surfing, we enjoyed guidance about this singular universe with the most erotically appealing characters, but…the adore story of Peter as well as Kim is indeed the low core of the book.
He writes with heartless probity about his regretful as well as behavioral shortcomings with her as well as her predecessors. we admire his eagerness to unclothed his tender thoughts as well as fears along the approach towards regretful fulfillment.
The descriptions of the flora as well as fauna of the coastal areas where surfing happens have been definitely cinematic in their elegant clarity. Sometimes we suspicion we was “seeing” the book rsther than than celebration of the mass it. Should be the movie!
Review by phil for Kook: What Surfing Taught Me About Love, Life, as well as Catching the Perfect Wave
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Peter Heller has created the fanciful book about life, love, as well as guidance to surf. He takes the reader from floating around upon the boogie house in Seal Beach, Cal to the trecherous roads as well as ordeals of Baja, Mexico. It brought me behind to my girl when we schooled to surf; wiping out, seeking similar to the kook, guidance to watch waves, emergence patrol, etc. Peter mentions most roller spots we have surfed in my life, as well as during 61 it was fun to relive those memories, feel the object in my heart, as well as assent in hold up itself. we suggest this book to surfers as well as non surfers alike. It is the wonderful, comfortable heart, smiling book!
Review by K. Elzer-peters for Kook: What Surfing Taught Me About Love, Life, as well as Catching a Perfect Wave
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I write a roller blog about women’s surfing. It is a utterly hobbyist blog, though a publishing house of this book found a blog as well as sent me a copy. I’m essay a examination here, as well as will examination it upon a blog. Thanks to Free Press for a duplicate of a book!
Hmmmm: this book was both great as well as fun, as well as unequivocally annoying. I’ll get a irritating out of a way: I’m certain a writer was perplexing to be droll whilst essay about his initial attempts during surfing, as well as starting out there though carrying any thought how to do it, though to me, which was unpleasant of a sea he loves so much, alternative surfers, as well as a competition of surfing itself.
I’m a latest surfer. I’m still a “kook.” we proposed guidance final year, though we proposed LEARNING. we did not lease a house as well as get in a H2O with NO instruction. But, which *could* be a “guy thing,” similar to asking for directions.
So, to me, it was NOT CUTE when Heller kept 1) perplexing to roller though lessons as well as 2) ignoring recommendation he got from seasoned professionals, time after time after time. Not everybody is so propitious to have world-champion surfers patiently instructing them about how to do it right. And, then, to utterly omit a surfer? That screams KOOK to me.
Note to latest surfers: The approach Heller learns to roller is NOT a approach we should sense to surf. The approach he resolutely ignores a principal order of surfing (when we get to a latest break, lay as well as WATCH it for during slightest 15-20 minutes) is DANGEROUS. Eventually he stumbles upon a roller camp, as well as learns to roller a right way, though he STILL jumps in a H2O though study it, as well as that’s a recipe for disaster. Take lessons, go to roller camp, during slightest sense how to tumble rightly so we do not get strike in a conduct with your house as well as pass out upon your initial paddle out.
As a small alternative reviews have mentioned, there is a small report about charge as well as sea issues in a book. we suspicion which felt forced. Mainly, since a writer did not suggest any suggestions about what to DO about a complaint with a ocean. He additionally didn’t crop up to take time to help, alternative than his all-expenses paid outing to Japan to work with a film “The Cove.”
This book is not unequivocally about surfing. It is about an obsession: an mania to be “cool.” That’s what it unequivocally boils down to. And, we can assimilate that. we adore revelation people which we surf. It is cool. But, similar to most others, we do not have a oppulance to leave all alternative responsibilities, expostulate off in a VW outpost to roller for a year, as well as get paid to write a book about it. (Eat, Pray, Love, anyone?) What is so strange, as well as I’m not unequivocally giving anything divided by revelation we this, is which a “Epilogue” of a book (one small paragraph) tells a reader which Heller is behind vital in Colorado, upon a lake, as well as a closest he gets to surfing is paddling around upon his stomach upon a longboard after a boats retire for a evening. That says, to me, which surfing was unequivocally NOT in his blood. Not for good. This outing took place in 2008. The book was published in 2010. How could he give it up which easily?
If we suffer journey books (as we do: I’ve review each book about rock climbing Everest as well as K2, each book about hiking in a Amazon, each book about coldwater swimming as well as round-the-world kayaking as well as sailing trips, etc.), we will similar to this book. It sounds similar to we didn’t similar to it: in actuality we did similar to it. It was interesting. It was an journey memoir. It only felt kind of gimmicky, as well as contrived–the total idea.
The tinge is fun, there have been laugh-out-loud lines, as well as we get to be a co-pilot upon a flattering fantastic roller trip. You competence a book if we have been a surfer, though we consider you’ll come to a conclusion, as we did during a end: Peter Heller has not completed his idea of graduating from Kook status.
Review by Lisa Jones for Kook: What Surfing Taught Me About Love, Life, as well as Catching a Perfect Wave
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Kook is dual things — a beautifully-written loyalty to a ocean, as well as a waggish midlife adore story. Oh yeah, it’s additionally about surfing. I’ve never overwhelmed a roller house though we utterly desired a story — Peter Heller is a dictatorial writer, as well as a book is a great, discerning summer review about a total fallible, freaky, pleasing disaster of being alive.